A Kernel of Truth: Debunking Cosmetics Myths

The Kernel of Truth

The Kernel of Truth

I was reading my email this morning and up pops my daily Groupon (a popular discount coupon service that I subscribe to).  Today’s offer is too good to be true 92% off spa services, so I look further. Great marketing, “made me look”!  And there was an amazing statement, and I quote: “Lying in the sun causes the tiny gold deposits under the skin to heat up and explode, resulting in a million dollar tan”.  Ok, nobody actually thinks they have little pieces of metal that ingnite causing their skin to change color….or does somebody take this as a truth?   It got me to thinking about all of the myths and misconceptions that float around simply because someone heard someone say something.  Lack of education is our problem with perhaps a tad bit of gullibility thrown in.

Here are a few myths that I hear from time to time and a kernel of truth.

  • Tans are caused by exploding gold nuggets (actually this is a new one on me)
    • MYTH
      • Tans are a way for your skin to defend itself against the cancer causing and aging forces of the sun.  Pigment (melanin) is stimulated by sun and acts as an umbrella to shield you. Culturally, we have associated tan with health (we used to also think smoking improved health but that is another story). Economically, an industry that delivers artificial yet still damaging sun rays has developed, hence the flowery language that caught my eye. Maybe people are more likely to pay for cancer inducing skin treatments if they imagine gold explosions rather than DNA damaging radiation.
      • Bottom line:  Stick to the spray tan or better yet, embrace your natural color whatever shade that is.
  • Over swollen fish lips can be the only result of fillers in the lips.
    • MYTH
      • As much as everyone seems to be in love with Angelina Jolie, I must say that women are not in love with those lips.  The most common fear expressed in my office and at cocktail parties is “I would never get my lips ‘done’!!  I don’t want to look like Angelina Jolie!”
      • Bottom line:  Fillers are like jello, they make a change by filling space.  A little filler restores the lost volume of aging.  Yes, our lips get smaller as time goes on starting in the early 30’s.   A lot of filler can be added to produce gigantic lips.  The resulting lip depends on the skill of the physician or licensed medical professional doing the treatment.  Find an established reputable medical provider and be clear on what you want. Then think of all of the areas on the face that could use just a little fill, I think you will be very pleased with what can be done.
  • Beware the frozen face of Botox, all expression is lost.
    • MYTH
      • Not to pick on celebrities, but they can give cosmetic dermatology a bad rap.  Nicole Kidman, as beautiful as she is, has from time to time overindulged in Botox , I think.
      • Bottom line:  Botox (and now its new competitor Dysport) are certainly capable of relaxing anything that moves, but who wants that?  Find a capable cosmetic medical provider and their experience and your clear desires result in very pleasant softening of harsh movement related lines with out overdone “frozen face”.
  • Sure Latisse grows great eyelashes but it will make my blue eyes brown!
    • MYTH
      • There is some reality here.  Latisse started life as Lumigan, a prescription eye drop that is used for glaucoma.  A small percentage of hazel eyed patients did see darkening of the iris. The MYTH part is that to date no reports of eye color change have occurred with Latisse which is not an eye drop but is applied to the lash line with a brush, like invisible liquid eyeliner.
      • Bottom line:  It seems when used correctly, applied to the lash line, not dropped into the eye, Latisse has not made anyone’s blue eyes brown.
  • Sunblock causes cancer, don’t use it.
    • MYTH
      • Don’t believe it even though it has been all over Twitter lately.  Yes there is a study cited (referred to as junk science by real experts from the Skin Cancer Foundation ) indicating an ingredient of some sunscreens is a problem. The ingredient retinyl palmitate is related to Retin A, one of the original anti wrinkle creams with known anti-cancer properties.
      • Bottom line: Sunscreen is your best way to reduce skin cancer and aging.  Use an SPF of 30 daily and don’t smear massive amounts of retinyl palmitate on your rats.

Neuromodulators make wrinkles disappear, but what are they?

Photo by 姒儿喵喵

Photo by 姒儿喵喵

I spent the weekend in a conference room, 10 hours each day, both days.  The room was too cold. The subject was not.  The subject was one of the hottest topics in cosmetic dermatology:  neuromodulators.  And I am guessing that you have never even heard of the word.

It’s an awkward term that is born of political correctness.   “Botox” has practically become generic for wrinkle removal. (It is so well known that Botox is to neuromodulator as Kleenex is to tissue). We needed a term that could describe the entire group of Botox-like drugs.  Yes, indeed there are many Botox-like drugs.  Some FDA approved, some soon to be approved. The truth is that Botox is just one of a few, soon to be many options.

What could possibly be better than the magnificent eraser of wrinkles? Dysport (pronounced “dis-port”) for one.  Well, maybe not better but certainly right up there.  Dysport is the first to follow Botox. It was approved a year ago and now has captured 20% of the neuromodulator market.  There is that word again.

Let me pause to define:  “neuro” relates to nerves and  “modulator” refers to the ability to modify;  neuromodulators (NM) like Botox work by decreasing nerve messaging to muscles resulting in relaxation of the targeted area (like the muscles of frowning).

Enough about vocabulary. Let’s talk about the stuff.  Having more than one NM to choose from is great for consumers.  We all benefit from having options.  At this point I have treated thousands of patients with Botox and hundreds with Dysport. What is my take?  The cost is essentially the same.  It take two or three times as many units of Dysport compared to Botox but the per unit price is much less.  Some patient’s feel that the Dysport kicks in sooner than Botox.  Some think the duration of Dysport beats Botox, some don’t.  The FDA declined to acknowledge any difference at all.  I hate to bring up the Coke and Pepsi analogy but the truth is that some like one better than the other, some can’t tell the difference. Both products come from excellent, well respected companies.  Allergan, makers of Botox also make Juvederm and Juvederm Ultra.  Medicis, famous for Restylane is bringing us Dysport.

If you have never had either then you can’t make a wrong choice. If you have had Botox and are wondering if there is something better, go for Dysport, what have you got to lose?  If you love your Botox, why change?

Here’s an inside tip, check out the rebates offered by the companies.   Dysport has the “Dysport Challenge: Love It or Leave It” a truly generous offer that puts $75 in your pocket when you try Dysport and another $75 for a second treatment of EITHER Dysport or Botox.  They are betting that if you try it you will like it.  On the other hand Botox has “Brilliant Distinctions” a frequent flyer-type point system where you earn points for trying Botox and can “spend” your points for any Allergan product (Latisse for eyelashes, Juvederm or more Botox).

Now you know all about NM, but wait! There are two new NM’s coming out in the next year or two.  I say, the more the merrier!  Bring ‘em on!

Looking Good in your 40s, 50s and 60s

Noninvasive cosmetic procedures are a great way to take years off your look—at every age! The nonsurgical approach offers flexibility, allowing each person to have a customized treatment plan. I especially think they are great for those who would prefer not to have a sudden or dramatic change. Here are some of my basic recommendations for cosmetic treatments in your 40s, 50s and 60s:

40s

Start early with BOTOX and frown lines will never develop! Enhance lips with dermal filler to maintain the fullness of the 30s.

50s

Tighten sagging and loose skin in its early stages on the face and body with collagen stimulating treatments like Thermage. Use dermal fillers for smile lines to soften your look.

60s

Expand the use of dermal fillers to correct a thinning face, sunken cheeks and hollow eyes. When done correctly, these “Liquid Face Lifts” can restore your facial features to younger contours. Also, youthful results are seen when fillers are used to replenish volume in the earlobes (earrings will sit better) and the brow (eye lids will appear lifted).

Remember, starting early with safe and effective treatments slows the visible aging process. So, start now! As time goes by, there is no such thing as “too late.” Combinations of small procedures can yield big results that delay or even eliminate the need for aggressive surgery.

Have you had a noninvasive procedure done that made you look 5 to 10 years younger? Please share your experience!

Good Looking People Get The Jobs?!

In this economic enviornment a lot of people are in the job market. Many of them are trying to determine how to stand out, impress the employer and land that job. Face it, first impressions are focused on the face. According to Malcolm Gladwell in his book Blink you have precious little time before that future employer makes that first and lasting assessment of you.

Patrick McMenamin, MD – President – American Academy of Cosmetic Surgery states:- As unemployment rises, the need for a competitive edge in the job market is becoming essential. Any way someone can compete better in this job market is a plus. Looking and feeling young can be a strong component when trying to get or keep a job. (HealthNewsDigest.com)

So logically a lot of folks are thinking about cosmetic procedures.   But not the big stuff like facelifts.  Too much money and too much down time are required.  The increasingly relevant procedures are the ones that will not take you out of the hunt or destroy your bank account. Men and women are turning to cosmetic procedures of a less invasive kind.

Botox is big, ideal for as a “coffee break” procedure to take the worried look out of the worried job seeker.  One can project an aire of confidence and optimism.  Qualities I look for in my staff and I assume other employers would too.

Fillers  (Juvederm, Restylane, Perlane, Evolence and others) “fill” a great need, they reduce the smile lines by plumping up the parentheses around your mouth that often signals age and fatigue, not the giggles.    A good candidate is bright and energetic and somewhat ageless.  There is nothing wrong with maturity and experience, in fact it can be a powerful plus, if the promise of  years of good service are there for the potential boss.

Lasers cannot be left out of the conversation,  I am Van Dyke Laser & Skin after all.   My favorite new laser (actually the technology has been around for a few years and has improved with age and upgrades) is the Fraxel re:store by Solta.  I love that little machine for what it can accomplish without taking you out of the picture for a week.  Here is a true weekend procedure that will  reduce sun-damage, precancers and fine lines as well as scars.  It is a gradual change with repeated treatments over several months that goes a long way to  producing a fresher looking face.

Don’t get me wrong, I am not suggesting that turning into a vague and motionless mask of a person will get you anything.  Go for subtle and natural results, see an experienced cosmetic dermatologist or plastic surgeon.  Avoid discount mall stores that promise the world but don’t deliver. Getting the right treatment for you the first time beats trial and error.

Bottom line, considering ways to get your edge on the competition,  think about first impressions.

Tell us about yourself:


How did you hear about us?

Online Search
Magazine Ad
A Friend

Feel free to call us with any questions (480)948-5045